Lyell Canyon to Evelyn Lake

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MVP

  • Garmin Instinct Solar—The GPS tracking on this watch is great, but what’s even better is the blood oxygen sensor. It’s given me the comfort of knowing that I wasn’t getting altitude sickness. It’s reading of 95% throughout the day made me feel confident and kept negative thoughts at bay.


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Camp Review:

  • Evelyn Lake was much prettier than I thought it would be. The Lake even had beaches on the west and east ends of the lake.

  • The sunset was pretty, but the smoke was so heavy that the sunset came about 20 minutes earlier than scheduled—the sun simply disappeared.

  • I found a 4 star camp site pretty far away from the lake. I would have preferred a closer site, but this has the wind protection that I wanted, and the site was perfectly level.

  • When I first got into the tent, the smoke was still pretty heavy and I only saw one star. Around 10pm, when I walked out, the smoke was completely gone and there were so many stars. I could easily see the Milky Way.


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What I Learned:

  • Rafferty Creek Trail is my exit trailhead. Rafferty Creek is dry, so I’ll have to remember to completely fill up at Boothe Lake.

  • On the drive in, there were parts of Yosemite that were completely filled with smoke. I would guesstimate at 500+ AQI. But as I drove east, it let up.

  • I was thinking about getting lunch on the way in, but couldn’t find anything to stir my interest. In the future, I think I should just down a high calorie pastry from the gas station (as I had done for Kennedy Mountain hike). I ended up just eating snacks because I didn’t want to stop for lunch.

  • I was worried about how cold I’d be hiking (I wasn’t wrong as there were puddles of water that were completely frozen), but by 10:30am, it was 60 degrees and I had to put my layers away!

  • The climb up from Lyell Fork to Evelyn Lake is about 2000ft in elevation, which isn’t usually hard... except for the pack, and smoke. Still, I averaged over 1mph, so I consider it a victory.

  • I thought the west fork of Ireland Creek would by dry, so I carried full water bottles. But it was still running. I could have carried 2+lbs less!

  • The smoke got so bad that by 2pm I had the n95 mask on. I should have put the mask on earlier, but I only put it on after I saw others on the trail put it on. I should have had it on earlier as it totally helps!

  • I had a headache at night, which made me worried about altitude sickness, but I ran the blood oxygen test and it confirmed that I was fine. I then narrowed it down to either all the smoke I inhaled as I huffed and puffed up Ireland Lake Trail; dehydration as I didn’t drink as much as I should given the exertion; or because I had only consumed about 1000 calories before dinner. Maybe a combo of all three.

  • By the morning the smoke was mostly gone (maybe 50 AQI) and I was feeling great!

  • My pack weight was 29.8 lbs and this was my first time using the Sierra Designs Flex Capacitor backpack. What a comfortable setup! There was no shoulder digging in, and I won’t go back to my old backpack!


Fears Faced:

Hiking in lots of smoke—Knowing what a I know now, I’m not sure if I would have still gone on this trip. I did okay, but I didn’t enjoy hiking as much as I should have. I think next year I need to plan coastal trips during California’s fire season.

Altitude sickness—Like Kennedy Mountain and Jennie Lakes Wilderness, I didn’t acclimate, and I didn’t get altitude sickness. I should just stop worrying about it, unless I’m hiking more than 11k in elevation.


Media Consumed:

The Glass Castle and various podcasts.


People Met:

I met a few people. Four awesome, young Indian backpackers who ended up camping at Evelyn Lake. Two older bay area hikers who were also really fun to talk to.


11.4 miles, 6 hrs 45 mins, 2124 ft of ascent

11.4 miles, 6 hrs 45 mins, 2124 ft of ascent

What Happened?

I drove to the Tuolumne Meadows Wilderness Station by 9am and picked up my permit. I then parked at the Dog Lake parking lot and started the hike on the John Muir Trail.

It was around 40 degrees when I started hiking, so I had my sweater on, but by 10:30am, my thermometer said that it was 60 degrees and I was hot. I took off my sweater and converted my pants to shorts, and I was much more comfortable.

Lyell Canyon wasn’t as pretty as I saw in the pictures due to the lack of blue water (due to the smoke in the air). Still, the hike was pretty flat and I made great time (2 mph).

When I got to the Ireland Lake trail intersection, I took a break to fill up on water and to catch my breath. I saw a couple passing and they pointed out a coyote—they said that it had been tracking them for the past few miles!

The Ireland Lake Trail was something else. It gains almost 2000ft in elevation over 3 miles and it really tired me out. The book I was listening to was pretty depressing too, so I switched it out for podcasts hoping it would give me a burst of energy. It helped, but it still couldn’t keep my brain from suggesting that I give up and just go back down. After almost 3 hours, I made it to the top, and I was pretty happy that I had made it.

There is this small unnamed lake before Evelyn Lake and I had read that the views from this lake were remarkable. Due to the heavy smoke in the air (I would estimate at over 200+ AQI), I couldn’t see a damned thing. The last mile to Evelyn Lake was tiring, as I felt a headache and hiking with a n95 mask on wasn’t fun.

I set up my tent after hiking another half a mile to find the best spot for me, and ended up conversing with friendly neighbors. After, I finally had my hot dinner, and it tasted so god damn good.

I replenished my water bottles one final time and retired to my tent. I rewatched an episode of Barry and went to bed. It has been a long day.


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Evelyn Lake to Boothe Lake

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Pelican North Beach