Castle Rock State Park
Climb Review:
Besides the routes, I feel the same as my previous review.
Magoo Warm Up (V0; Mr. Magoo Boulder)—When I tried this six months ago, I struggled to link the inside roof to the regular route, but this time, I was able to get up there without much issue. It was fun to see my progression.
Unnamed Hueco (V0; Mr. Magoo Boulder)—I flashed this one as well, and it was a great route for me to start trusting sloper holds. I was glad to do this one early, as slopers were more common than I’d liked the rest of the day.
Unnamed Arete (V0; Mr. Magoo Boulder)—I flashed this one too. An easy climb.
Magoo Face (V2; Mr. Magoo Boulder)—I struggled on this and kept falling at the crux (but I swear, if I could just psychologically trust my foot and hands, I would have completed this as I was one move away). But even though I didn’t send it, it was a fun route. I can’t wait to send this in a few months when I’m stronger!
Unnamed Pockets (VB; Bates Boulders)—This was a pretty easy one. Just gotta figure out which hand holds are bomber, and just go go go.
Waimea Wall (V2; Castle Rock)—Another one that I struggled with. I watched a video on youtube as beta, and while I was able to get to the best hold of the route, I couldn’t translate that into even going for the next move on the crux. Still, after coming home and watching a few more videos, I think I can do this one if I’m 10% stronger! I’m so close to sending this one, and it’s so motivating!
Castle Rock Traverse (V1; Mr. Magoo Boulder)—I sent this after a few tries, and I found this to be the most fun route of the day. Completing this was my first official traverse (of a documented route) outdoors! I enjoyed how because it didn’t challenge my fear of heights, I was able to just climb, and I had lots of fun.
Right Face (V0; Bates Boulders)—I struggled with this one for a few tries until I figured out my second left hand hold. Once I figured out that it was a two-finger hold that I needed to pull (then push) on, it was relatively easy. I think I was helped out a lot by the fact that at this point, I had gotten a little more comfortable with slopers, so I could just go for it.
Left Face (V0; Bates Boulders)—I struggled with this one for a few tries too, and this one was easy once I figured out my foot holds. There’s a decent sloper that ended up being the second right hand hold that I actually had to pull hard on, and it was really cool to trust that sloper hold and to just go for it. Though, I was able to do that because I also put my entire right forearm on the rock for extra friction. Still, a send is a send!
What I Learned:
Currently, I’m very confident about flashing V0 routes, sending V1 routes, and having good attempts at V2s. Six months ago, I think I was flashing VB routes, sending V0 routes, and having good attempts at V1s. I feel a progression and a confidence, which I enjoy a lot.
The first three pictures on the above gallery are from Jo.
Friends Made:
Gene, Vivian, Scarlett and Jo made it to the climb, and (as always) it was awesome having them there. Pranay wasn’t there, so I did my best in taking some nice photos of Gene and Vivian (I forgot that I had brought my nice camera until I got to Waimea Wall, so no photos of Jo or Scarlett).
What Happened?
Vivian and I got a new bouldering guidebook (Golden State Bouldering), and we found that this book has the most complete routes of any bouldering book we have. So while I was scanning through the pages, I found that there were these routes that they had marked as “classic” routes at Castle Rock that we had to give our best effort on.
We met up pretty early and warmed up on Mr Magoo Boulder with the aim of trying our best on Waimea Wall once we felt really good. Jo and Scarlett joined us for the Mr Magoo Boulder portion and they both tried a few routes. When we got to Waimea Wall, they had to go as Jo needed to work.
The rest of the crew then climbed past our regular lunchtimes, and headed back down to San Jose with our bellies begging for food. Jjajangmyun, jjamppong, and other Korean/Chinese food perfectly fit the bill.