Indian Rock
Climb Review
Oh Indian Rock, it’s my old friend! I learned how to build anchors here and I climbed here with Venkat a year and a half ago.
The rock is sandstone and while at first it doesn’t inspire confidence, it is fun to climb.
The place is pretty clean and the bolts are in great condition.
Parking is easy on an workday afternoon and the approached is nice and short.
South Face (5.8+; Indian Rock)—I climbed the route between South Face and Shag Rug before, but hadn’t done this route properly. I had thought that Elinor wanted to lead it (and she does), but she needed practice, so I ended up leading it. It took a minute for me to get comfortable with this rock, but by the second bolt, I was already feeling much better and trusting the rock. I made it up just fine, and after Elinor’s practice run, I climbed the route between South Face and Shag Rug. It felt easy instead of desperate like the first time I climbed it... I guess I can prove that I’ve become a better climber in the past 18 months.
What I Learned
The Castle Rock State Park is an area infested with mosquitos. If it weren’t for the repellent that Elinor brought, I think I would have been eaten alive.
This was my first time ever using two opposing quick links as an anchor. It worked well, but I still like the good ol’ locking carabiners with a sling much better.
Friends
Elinor climbed this route with me and we had a great session where she identified South Face as the route she wants to lead climb. I think she ended up climbing the route 4 times, getting more confident with each climb, though I think her foot slipped at the top on the 3rd climb and another slip on the 4th climb.
What Happened?
With such good climbing a short 30 minute drive away, how can one not take advantage?
Elinor and I met up at the Indian Rock parking lot and walked over to the rock for some evening climbing. I had no idea what the plan was, so was pleasantly surprised that she had identified South Face as her project for leading. I was then extra surprised that I would have to lead it, since I wasn’t going to do sketchier shit (IMHO) by scampering up this rock without any protection. I took a while to get used to this rock and trusting my right foot, but once I did, I felt good topping out. I then lowered and Elinor started her projecting.
It was my turn again after Elinor sent the route twice and I decided to re-climb the route between Shag Rug and South Face. The route actually felt easy (though my right foot still gave me some issues) but fun and I topped out in good time. I then belayed Elinor again for two more runs. By that time, I thought about doing Blowing Bubbles or Cave route on the other side of Indian Rock, but decided to shut it down for today due to my right ankle.
I then drove home in time for dinner and my book club.