Indian Rock

Climb Review

  • Oh Indian Rock, it’s my old friend! I learned how to build anchors here and I climbed here with Venkat a year and a half ago.

  • The rock is sandstone and while at first it doesn’t inspire confidence, it is fun to climb.

  • The place is pretty clean and the bolts are in great condition.

  • Parking is easy on an workday afternoon and the approached is nice and short.


  • South Face (5.8+; Indian Rock)—I climbed the route between South Face and Shag Rug before, but hadn’t done this route properly. I had thought that Elinor wanted to lead it (and she does), but she needed practice, so I ended up leading it. It took a minute for me to get comfortable with this rock, but by the second bolt, I was already feeling much better and trusting the rock. I made it up just fine, and after Elinor’s practice run, I climbed the route between South Face and Shag Rug. It felt easy instead of desperate like the first time I climbed it... I guess I can prove that I’ve become a better climber in the past 18 months.

What I Learned

  • The Castle Rock State Park is an area infested with mosquitos. If it weren’t for the repellent that Elinor brought, I think I would have been eaten alive.

  • This was my first time ever using two opposing quick links as an anchor. It worked well, but I still like the good ol’ locking carabiners with a sling much better.

Friends

Elinor climbed this route with me and we had a great session where she identified South Face as the route she wants to lead climb. I think she ended up climbing the route 4 times, getting more confident with each climb, though I think her foot slipped at the top on the 3rd climb and another slip on the 4th climb.

What Happened?

 

With such good climbing a short 30 minute drive away, how can one not take advantage?

Elinor and I met up at the Indian Rock parking lot and walked over to the rock for some evening climbing. I had no idea what the plan was, so was pleasantly surprised that she had identified South Face as her project for leading. I was then extra surprised that I would have to lead it, since I wasn’t going to do sketchier shit (IMHO) by scampering up this rock without any protection. I took a while to get used to this rock and trusting my right foot, but once I did, I felt good topping out. I then lowered and Elinor started her projecting.

It was my turn again after Elinor sent the route twice and I decided to re-climb the route between Shag Rug and South Face. The route actually felt easy (though my right foot still gave me some issues) but fun and I topped out in good time. I then belayed Elinor again for two more runs. By that time, I thought about doing Blowing Bubbles or Cave route on the other side of Indian Rock, but decided to shut it down for today due to my right ankle.

I then drove home in time for dinner and my book club.


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Underworld Rock

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Boy Scout Rocks