Pinnacles—Passion Play

Climb Review

  • I have climbed at Pinnacles National Park more than a few times, but this was the best rock I have ever touched at Pinnacles. The route was easier than at The Citadel (even though it’s graded higher) and the rock was even better quality than what we had found the week before.

  • I didn’t spot any other climbers, though I did spy plenty of folks scrambling around on the rock and having fun.

  • Passion Play Area is only half a mile from the parking lot and is right off the trail, so it’s easy to find. It also means that there are people who will be watching, but it’s an easy route, so no worries. :)

The Big Bad West (5.5, Passion Play Area)—This route is so easy and bomber that I was tempted not to use any quickdraws, but I thought that would make a poor example to the kiddos, so I climbed it as usual. But yeah, the route is bomber, it’s easy, and I’m eyeing it for Cassie’s first lead, whenever she feels ready to lead a route. When heading up, the view to the right is so pretty, with a small gorge right in front and Machete Ridge hanging out in the back.

Thanks to Kyle for this picture!

What I Learned

  • There is solid rock at Pinnacles National Park. Who knew?

  • Cassie is a great belayer who does not let the rope go through the GriGri. Mountain Project stated that this route was a 50 ft climb, which meant that my 35 m rope would be more than long enough for it. Unfortunately for me, I believed this number a bit too much where I did not tie a stopper knot on my rope before going up. As I was being lowered, I was about 5 ft off the ground when I could have taken a fall directly on my butt. Instead, Cassie caught me and told me what happened. I then hung out at a ledge about 6 ft above her and belayed everyone from there as that was the only way others could start climbing at the start of the route. When I got home, I submitted a correction on the Mountain Project website about this route’s length, which was accepted that night.

Friends

Kyle brought Keva and Meara and they had a good time watching us climb. Actually, Kyle jumped on the route while I belayed him, but it had been a couple of months since he last climbed—he just felt too uncomfortable once he climbed up a bit. Keva and Meara were uninterested in the climbing, but they did have lots of fun catching frogs, watching tadpoles, and having fun with Kaylee and Annabelle.

What Happened?

 

I invited Kyle and his girls to a hike and climb at Pinnacles and when we parked at the western parking lot, the first thing we decided to do was rock climb.

When we got to Passion Play Area, the girls started playing at the creek directly below the climbing route while Cassie and I racked up and got our gear ready. I led the route, set the anchor, and then had Cassie lower me down. She then climbed next and had an easy time, just like me. Kyle and Annabelle both tried their hand on this route and Annabelle almost made it to the top, but this day just wasn’t hers (it probably didn’t help that she had not rock climbed in more than 1/2 a year). I then climbed up once more, cleaned the anchor, and walked it off to the right, where there were slabs down to the start of the route.

I really liked this area and I think it’ll be my new gold standard place where I bring new sport climbers to learn how to lead.

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Castle Rock State Park

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Pinnacles—The Citadel