Indian Joe Caves
Thanks to Darlene for this picture!
Climb Review
Freeway (5.8; Edge Rock)—I soloed this (just like last time) to set the anchor for Pull Up. Honestly, it felt like a 5.4 climb where the holds felt awesome.
Pull Up (5.10a; Edge Rock)—I climbed this as my final climb of the day and while the holds were tiny crimps, it felt easy, which is crazy since I struggled so much with it last year. I love this sport when it gives me moments like this where I can clearly see how much I’ve progressed.
West Face (5.10a; Cleavage Rock)—I climbed this slightly more difficult start because it looked fun. The 10a part is so short (and easy) that I’m not sure it’s a 10a, but what do I know? The rest of the climb was good with solid holds and some fun body positions.
Middle Right Side of the North Face (5.8; Cleavage Rock)—I climbed this as there was a crack to follow and a blank section that looked interesting from the bottom. When I got up there, I found that the holds were super bomber and what looked blank had reachable jugs. After I got to the top, I set a separate anchor with another rope so that we could climb the following 5.9.
Right Side Arete on the North Face (5.9; Cleavage Rock)—I climbed this right after I came down from the above 5.8—since I set the anchor, I wanted to ensure that it was safe for everyone else. The roof move on this climb is the key attraction and at first, it seemed difficult. Once I found the holds, however, it went smoothly.
What I Learned
This was my first organized climbing meet of 2024 and I was glad to have picked Indian Joe Caves. The rock felt incredible and I think I’ll appreciate the rock at Indian Joe Caves more and more. I am so blessed to have such fun varied climbing areas—such as this one—so close to where I live.
I was very fortunate to get lucky and have some experienced climbers join. Because of the awesome people, I was able to set up three total ropes in two separate areas and still get to climb.
Thanks to Darlene for the 6 photos above!
Friends
I met Gary who joined me and Cassie at the parking lot and walked with us to the crag. Once there, Juan joined us and a few other folks came right after that. Darlene, Mighty, and two others (I can’t remember their names for the life of me) joined us to climb. Everyone was super chill with the more experienced climbers teaching others the finer points of belaying (if they were open to learning) and the newer climbers asking the more experienced climbers for fun stories and ways to improve. I’d like to call out Gary for being super cool, belaying more than climbing, and cleaning. I’d also like to call out Darlene for navigating those unfamiliar with Indian Joe Caves to the right crag, leading a route, and cleaning. I was also impressed with everyone for bringing a helmet, which is a must in outdoor climbing and belaying situations.
Oh, while we were there, I got to meet Jake, who is an active member of the Coalition Crag Discord and who I had heard nice things about from Marina. He was every bit as awesome as advertised. He gave me helpful beta and even went as far as to set up a rope for us. I hope to climb with him in the future as I think he is super cool.
What Happened?
On one of the first weekends when we had no rain or wet rocks, I got lucky. Unlike the other two times I had scheduled a climb this year, I could finally follow through!
However, when the scheduled time came, no one showed up at the parking lot. I was a little bummed out so instead of waiting the regular 10 minutes, I waited 20, which allowed me to meet Gary. Cassie, Gary, and I then hiked to Indian Joe Caves and got to know each other a bit. Once we were at the rocks, I set an anchor above Pull Up and we started climbing.
As soon as we got going, everyone else joined us! It turns out that people had trouble getting to the park in time as there was construction on 680 and the highway was closed! With a larger group and an empty crag, we quickly set three ropes and everyone got to climbing. I think we would have climbed for hours longer if it weren’t for the setting sun.
We left the place a bit cleaner than we found it and enjoyed the beautiful sunset over the green hills at Sunol on the hike out. At the parking lot, we said our goodbyes and headed off to our private adventures.
